I had been asked
by a
teacher, who is a member of the newly formed ‘Friends of East
Timor’ in Bairnsdale, to go to East Timor, also known as Timor
Leste. Many organisation’s and governments supply money and
materials, but there is a severe shortage of technical and trades
people to train and assist in the reconstruction process. It is of
paramount importance that these people obtain assistance to become a
truly independent nation. At present because of conditions, the lack of
infrastructure and technical knowledge, they are totally dependant on
outside help. It has been known for some time, that it is not desirable
for developing countries to be in a situation of long term dependence,
as this can result in a demoralisation and a loss of the desire to
stand alone. My task was to assist in the setting up of computers and
the training of students in the basic use of the personal computer.
This was for the 'DonBosco' Catholic school, in Comoro, Dili. Since I
have no formal training in IT and only home experience in the repair
and installation of software and absolutely nothing in teaching. I
wondered if I would be of any assistance. My daughter inspired me by
saying. “The only thing to do, Dad, is to go there and find
out.” This seemed to me to be a wise enough comment, so I decided
on a two week visit to see just what I could do!
On my arrival I was
greeted
as though I was a long lost relative. I came to nickname East Timor as
the ‘Island of Children,’ as there is a noticeable absence
of adults. The reason being that during the 25 years of Indonesian
occupation and after the independence vote in 1999, the Indonesian
Militia had murdered a total of as many as 200,000 people as well
as looting what they could carry and destroying the rest. It is
unfortunate that as well as being unable to act until it was too late.
The Australian government is not noticeably present with aid, apart
from an interest in oil reserves. In view of the existence of oil and
gas fields, it is a pity that more cannot be done in anticipation of
future income from these sources. In spite of all the years of
occupation and human rights abuses, these people hold no malice, I
could see that for them to have people come and stay with them and care
about them meant as much as anything. I had already achieved much just
by setting foot in Dili. I had learned the true meaning of the basic
Christian commandment. ‘To love your neighbour as
yourself.’ Where ever I went, I was greeted by pearly white teeth
in a big smile saying ‘Bondia’ in the morning, which means
‘good morning’. In the afternoon it is
‘Botarde,’ meaning ‘good afternoon’. I enquired
as to how the Timorese people maintained such beautiful white teeth.
The answer, simply, that they don’t eat anything with sugar in
it, or meat. Their main diet consists of rice and vegetables. And that
is when they do eat.
The
‘new’
donated computers that I was to set up, turned out to be early Pentiums
pushing towards ten years. As well as a pile of inoperable monitors,
pci cards, old manufacturers books, stacks of keyboards and broken
mice. There is a misconception in western countries that third world
people will spend the time to fix any old junk. This simply is not
true. Electronic equipment these days is generally not repairable
except for the replacement of circuit boards and even this needs to be
carried out in a fairly well equipped repair shop. Fortunately, after a
few hours, I managed to set up seven working stations. I then went and
‘borrowed’ a Philips screwdriver and managed to coax a few
more back from the dead. I now had nine operational systems and almost
another. My next problem was software. There was a mixture of operating
systems, some of which were, well! Anybody who has used Windows 95 and
98 will know what I mean. Guess what? There was absolutely no software
backup in the school. Even the main office computers of late vintage
had been supplied with ‘Windows XP Professional’
pre-installed and no backup disks supplied. For people unfamiliar.
‘Windows XP Home’ has to be registered on the internet, or
it will fail to operate after a short period after installation.
Whereas the ‘professional’ version designed for networking
computers doesn’t. Although a little ungainly, with the use of an
illegal installation key generator, ‘XP Professional’
serves as a pirates delight. I wonder if there is a legal version of
the XP operating system anywhere in Asia. In any event, I don’t
think it would send microsoft to the wall. It might even do them some
good, to have some free versions supplied to developing countries. As
the computers were not capable of operating on high resource intensive
operating systems, I took a trip into Dili and purchased a printed and
packaged copy of Windows 98 Vers2, of dubious origin, since the writing
was in Chinese and I had only paid the princely sum of US$3. The other
main problem I had in East Timor, was internet access. This is a
virtual must when dealing with computers. Only dial up was available
and this was extremely unreliable. Often a connection could not be made
and due to a noisy line, it was slower than usual with frequent drop
outs. I was also horrified to learn that Timor Telecom charged US$6 per
hour for this frustration. Basically it was only good for the
occasional email.
On Sunday’s
I
went into Dili to attend the English mass. To and from, the roads are
full of people walking either to Mass or home from it. Most are
spotlessly clean and dressed in their best clothes in the old
tradition. This is quite something for people that live in shanties
with very little of anything. In the hills behind the school are a
series of monuments to the ‘Ecumenical way of the cross.’
In the slightly cooler late afternoons, when the temperature was at
least below 30C, I enjoyed a walk to the top. Part way up is a concrete
grotto to Saint Mary. There would nearly always be people there
praying. One night after reaching the three concrete crosses of
‘Calvary’ at the summit, I wondered why God would not put
an end to such poverty. As if in response, it came to my mind that his
answer might be. “Many souls would be lost, if I did it now. They
would not have the opportunity to complete ‘their way’ of
the cross. On my return back down from the mountain, many children
would gather around me. If I had my camera they would eagerly insist
that I take their photo and then they would almost pull the camera from
my grasp in their eagerness to see their image. On my last walk,
without the camera, they came and held my hands as we walked. I
wondered if this was what Jesus had felt when the children came to him!
On a sight seeing trip on the outskirts of Dili, we came across a
rubbish dump. My heart sank at the sight of barefooted children
scavenging for anything that they could find. But to my amazement when
I took their photo they giggled with raucous laughter at the joy of
just having their photo taken.
The Salesian
priests
had to attend a meeting at a village beyond Baucau, this is East
Timor’s second largest city. I took the opportunity for a day
trip to visit my companion who was staying there for two months to
teach at St. Antonio’s, the Catholic school which our
‘Friends of East Timor’ group gives most of their support
to. On my arrival, I stood in awe at the stunning vegetation. Baucau is
around 300 metres above sea level in amongst limestone caves and rocky
outcrops. There are numerous springs surfacing and running through the
city. As it was the end of the dry season it appears that they must run
all year. This would explain the magnificent vegetation. Since the
school is currently without power to run it’s computer room, I
wondered at the possibility of a micro hydro system, which is commonly
used throughout Asia, to power remote villages such as Baucau. I met up
with my companion and asked if I could watch him teach. I was
interested to learn teaching and I had yet to conduct a computer class
back in Dili. Before I knew what had happened, the students had dragged
me into a classroom to teach them. I suspected that my companion, who
had gone missing momentarily, had put them up to this. But he assured
me later that he had not. These children just love to be taught and we
talked mostly about Australia, which they seemed keen to learn about.
This was all a new experience for me and I was amazed at my enjoyment.
At one stage there was a bit of trouble between some students. It
appeared that some had been a bit too keen and had been fighting over
me.
On my last day in
East
Timor, my host, Father Tran, took me into the mountains to see the
villages there and also one of their main exports, which is coffee. It
is cooler in the mountains and to my surprise, the coffee trees have a
sweet smell reminiscent of spring. Many Timorese live on the mountains
to escape the heat and mosquitos. I am told that they carry water from
the valleys to their grass thatched huts on the peaks. In the afternoon
we passed multitudes of children walking home from school in their
perfectly maintained uniforms. We hardly passed any that did not smile
and politely greet us. Later in the afternoon it began to rain lightly.
The smell of the eucalypts and the innocent faces seemed like heaven.
We stopped and gave some students a ride, as they hate to get their
uniforms wet because they only have one outfit. After we dropped them
off, I enquired of Father Tran if the students were taught about the
danger of accepting lifts from strangers. He informed me that they were
completely innocent and unafraid. I think it was about this time that
emotion caught up with me. It was just as well that I was wearing
sunglasses to hide my tears.
On my return to Darwin,
among
impatient drivers, rude shoppers and the drunk and drugged staggering
down the street, I felt really alone. I wondered who was truly rich and
who was poor. “Before my subjects I stand stripped. The poorest
King that ever lived, even my deathbed is not my own. Yet who has ever
been so rich, possessing nothing, I own all! My Fathers
Love!”